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==Introduction==
 
==Introduction==
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''Indoor marking and housesoiling often occur together in the same household, and in a multi-cat household several cats may be involved. An important part of reaching a behavioural diagnosis must be to identify the culprits. Fluorescein dye or sweet corn may be administered in the same way as for house soiling problems, starting with the cats that are least likely to be involved in the problem [see box on the use of fluorescein for identifying the origin of urine deposits]. ''
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''Indoor marking and [[Indoor Elimination - Cat|housesoiling/inappropriate elimination]] often occur together in the same household, and in a multi-cat household several cats may be involved. The common factors are discussed on the [[Housesoiling - Cat|housesoiling page]]. An important part of reaching a behavioural diagnosis must be to [[Housesoiling - Cat#Identifying the Culprit|identify the culprits]].  
    
More than one cat may be involved, and it should be remembered that, in some cases, the culprit for indoor marking may not be a resident cat at all. Intact male cats and despots may enter the homes of other cats to take food, and then leave urine marks within the home. In these cases, treating the resident cats will have no effect on the marking behaviour and, in fact, increasing the level of resources available within the home may raise its value and therefore encourage the despot to try to take it over. In such circumstances, an electronic coded cat-door would need to be fitted.
 
More than one cat may be involved, and it should be remembered that, in some cases, the culprit for indoor marking may not be a resident cat at all. Intact male cats and despots may enter the homes of other cats to take food, and then leave urine marks within the home. In these cases, treating the resident cats will have no effect on the marking behaviour and, in fact, increasing the level of resources available within the home may raise its value and therefore encourage the despot to try to take it over. In such circumstances, an electronic coded cat-door would need to be fitted.
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'''Removing urine contamination'''
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* Make up and label three plant sprayer bottles containing:
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::A: 10% solution of biological washing powder/liquid in water.
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::B: Plain water.
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::C: Surgical spirit.
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* Mop up excess urine and dry the surface using paper towels. Do not soak up urine using the cloth you intend to use for cleaning or wring a urine soaked cloth into the cleaning bucket as this will spread urine odours.
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* Spray the surface with bottle A [biological detergent solution]. Mop the surface with paper towel.
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* Spray the surface with bottle B [plain water]. Mop the surface dry with paper towel.
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* Mist the surface with bottle C and allow it to dry naturally. Do not allow the cat access to the area for at least 30 minutes to allow the alcohol to dry.
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* Dispose of paper towels to a dustbin outside the house.
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Test these cleaning products on an inconspicuous area of cloth or carpet before using them more widely to make sure that no discolouration or loss of colour is likely to occur.
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'''Protecting property from urine damage'''
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Wooden floors:
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* Seal joints and junctions between flooring and skirting boards or fitted furniture [kitchen units] with a silicone or an appropriate waterproof sealant to prevent urine from getting into cracks.
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* Carefully seal joints between the panels of laminated flooring [urine ingress will cause panels to expand and pop up].
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* Paint wooden floors with 2 or more coats of a heavy varnish [matt or gloss according to choice] or damp-sealant paint. If possible, extend the painted or varnished area to over-paint the sealant and thus create a complete barrier.
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Concrete floors:
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* Clean the floor and allow it to dry.
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* Seal cracks as above.
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* Paint it with several coats of a waterproofing paint.
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Vinyl floors:
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* Some vinyl floors are porous, especially if they are old.
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* They may be sealed using specialist paints and coatings available from DIY centres.
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* Cracked vinyl flooring should be removed and replaced.
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Tiled floors:
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* Glazed tiles are generally non-porous but grout between the tiles may absorb urine.
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* Terracotta tiles are porous unless regularly sealed with a specialist coating [available from DIY stores].
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* Use a specialist sealant on grout.
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* Consider scraping out old grout in heavily urine-contaminated areas and replacing it with new waterproof grout.
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Carpets:
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* When fitting new carpet, clean and seal the flooring underneath [as above].
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* Consider applying a layer of heavy plastic sheeting beneath the carpet or underlay to prevent urine from seeping into the floor.
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* Protect existing carpets by covering them with heavy plastic sheeting and then cleaning the carpet underneath at least 2-3 times weekly until no further urine odour persists.
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Wooden furniture:
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* Where possible apply 2+ coats of varnish, especially under wooden feet of furniture [to stop urine absorption into wood grain].
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* Otherwise use regular applications of a heavy wax furniture polish.
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Computers and electronic equipment:
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* Urine marking or soiling on electrical equipment is a serious health hazard: it can cause fires and electrical failures.
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* Disconnect the equipment from the electricity outlet and clean carefully in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
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* Allow to dry thoroughly.
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* Dispose of any cooking equipment that is impossible to clean thoroughly [e.g. old toasters], because these represent a health hazard.
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* Keep the equipment in a cupboard where it cannot be further soiled, or cover it in plastic sheeting when you are not using it [remembering the need for some equipment to be properly ventilated].
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Electrical outlets:
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* Urine entering a wall socket can cause a fire or shock hazard, so access to the location should be restricted.
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* As an additional protection, cover the outlet with cling-film or a large flap of polythene hanging down over the socket, taped to the wall above it or alternatively use child proof plug guards.
      
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