Difference between revisions of "Husbandry - Small Mammals"
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==Introduction== | ==Introduction== | ||
Many diseases in small animal medicine concern poor husbandry, so it is vital to be well informed on the requirements of the small mammals commonly seen in practice. | Many diseases in small animal medicine concern poor husbandry, so it is vital to be well informed on the requirements of the small mammals commonly seen in practice. | ||
| Line 57: | Line 56: | ||
==Ferrets== | ==Ferrets== | ||
===Housing=== | ===Housing=== | ||
| − | + | The can be housed '''singly or in groups'''. | |
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | '''Slings, hammocks, shelves''' can be built into cage to add additional sleep/play areas | + | Indoors or outdoors depending on the climate |
| + | :'''Indoors''' - multi-level wire cage when necessary to confine, floor either solid or wire, NO glass tanks (poor ventilation); wooden cages can be used but care must be taken to pee proof corners/lower 3rd of walls/floors | ||
| + | :'''Outdoors''' - a portion of the cage should be shaded for protection from extreme heat/cold, escape proof, do not tolerate temps above 32°c especially with high humidity, in climates where temp drops below -6°c a heated shelter is necessary | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Slings, hammocks, shelves''' can be built into cage to add additional sleep/play areas | ||
| + | |||
| + | Dark, enclosed sleeping area using towels, old shirts, cloth hats, commercial sleeping products (tubes/tents) | ||
| + | |||
| + | If the pet eats cloth can use cardboard, plastic or wooden box with access hole | ||
| + | |||
| + | One sleep area should be provided per ferret. | ||
Ferrets can be '''litter box trained''' relatively easily. They back up into corners to defecate or urinate, so box sides should be high. A pelleted litter material is recommended instead of clay or clumping litter. Ferrets have a short GI transit time so litter boxes should be easily accessible. | Ferrets can be '''litter box trained''' relatively easily. They back up into corners to defecate or urinate, so box sides should be high. A pelleted litter material is recommended instead of clay or clumping litter. Ferrets have a short GI transit time so litter boxes should be easily accessible. | ||
| − | There should be a safe play area with a variety of objects (boxes, bags, plastic pipes) | + | There should be a safe play area with a variety of objects (boxes, bags, plastic pipes) |
| − | “Ferret proofing” the house | + | “Ferret proofing” the house - block off all holes to outside or to areas which ferrets cannot be retrieved , cover bottom of couches/chairs/mattresses with a piece of thin plywood or hardware cloth- ferrets like to burrow in soft foam rubber (destructive, foreign body), restrict access to recliners, no foam or latex rubber items (cat/dog toys, athletic shoes, rubber bands, stereo speakers, headphones, pipe insulation). |
===Diet=== | ===Diet=== | ||
| − | Ferrets are '''strict carnivores''' | + | Ferrets are '''strict carnivores''' - designed to eat whole, small prey. |
| − | + | Ferrets in nature would only encounter carbohydrates in preys partially digested stomach contents, they have a short GIT, minimal gut flora, few enzymes, and so '''cannot use carbohydrates efficiently or digest fibre'''. | |
| − | + | Diet should be high in fat, high in good-quality meat protein, with minimal carbohydrates and fibre. | |
| − | Water | + | '''High quality kitten food''' or commercially prepared '''ferret food'''; avoid dog or cat food |
| + | |||
| + | '''Supplements to dry food''' - whole prey (chicks, mice, rats), fresh raw organ or muscle meat, raw eggs, omega-3 oils, fish oils or meat fat can be added to increase fat content, some ferrets tolerate dairy products | ||
| + | |||
| + | Develop olfactory preferences for foods during first 3mo of life and preferences set by 4 mo (when leave nest in wild). It is difficult to change an adult ferrets diet | ||
| + | |||
| + | Water always available in sipper or heavy crock-type bowl. Ferrets like to play in the water, so the bowl should not be easy to overturn. Supplements should not be added to the ferrets’ water. | ||
==Chinchillas== | ==Chinchillas== | ||
===Housing=== | ===Housing=== | ||
| − | + | Individual or group housing | |
| + | |||
| + | '''Very active''', acrobatic animals; require a lot of space | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Large, multilevel cages''' allow for climbing and jumping | ||
| + | |||
| + | Welded '''wire mesh''' preferred as they often chew wooden cages. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Areas for eating, sleeping, exercising and latrine | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Shy''' so need places to hide such as PVC pipes, plastic or cardboard boxes | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Soft bedding''' to absorb waste and decrease pressure on feet such as recycled paper products, shredded newspaper, aspen shavings. Cedar and pine should be avoided. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Do best in cool, dry environment- '''10-20°c.''' They do not tolerate dampness and are prone to heat stroke at temperatures greater than 30°c. Alternatives might include using electric fans or placing plastic bottles filled with ice in enclosure. | ||
| − | + | 12 hour photoperiod; full spectrum lighting might be helpful | |
| − | + | Cleaned thoroughly at least 2x per week. A diluted bleach suolution is the preferred disinfectant. | |
| − | + | '''Dust bath daily or at least several times per week'''. Sanitised chinchilla dust is available in pet shops. 9:1 mixture of silver sand and Fuller’s earth can be used. Beach/playground sand not suitable. 2-3cm in a pan, big enough for chinchilla to roll around in. Sand bath should be removed from cage when done to prevent faecal contamination and over bathing. | |
| − | + | Water bottles or heavy bowls. | |
===Diet=== | ===Diet=== | ||
| − | + | Eat mainly '''at night'''. | |
| + | |||
| + | Specific nutrient requirements are still unknown | ||
| − | + | '''Commercial diets available''' - some are just a mixture of rabbit, guinea pig and rodent pellets that provide vitamin C, are lower in protein and fat, has same fibre content as rabbit diet, and the pellets are longer to make it easier for the chinchilla to hold | |
| − | + | Accepted formula is 16-20% protein, 2-5% fat, 15-35% bulk fibre | |
| − | Clean, fresh drinking water | + | Recommended diet - good quality '''grass hay''' supplemented with small amounts of chinchilla or rabbit pellets and '''fresh vegetables'''. |
| + | |||
| + | Gradual changes in diet. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Clean, fresh drinking water at all times. | ||
==Hamsters== | ==Hamsters== | ||
===Housing=== | ===Housing=== | ||
| − | + | Should be kept '''singly'''; will fight if kept in pairs/groups | |
| − | + | Easy to clean cage recommended- lightweight easy to remove plastic bottom with sides deep enough to contain bedding, wire top, large door | |
| − | + | Small, heavy dishes for food | |
| + | |||
| + | Water bottle (check/refill DAILY) | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Bedding'''- recycled paper, compressed wheat straw, citrus litter, aspen or oak beddings, corncob; avoid pine and cedar | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Hide box''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | Keep in cool area of house during summer- stressed by hot and humid environments | ||
| + | |||
| + | 12 hour light cycles | ||
| + | |||
| + | Clean 2x/week | ||
===Diet=== | ===Diet=== | ||
| − | '''Seeds | + | '''Seeds as treats''', not sole diet |
| + | |||
| + | Formulated pellets or blocks | ||
| + | |||
| + | Minimum protein content of 16%, fat content 4-5%. | ||
==Gerbils== | ==Gerbils== | ||
===Housing=== | ===Housing=== | ||
| − | + | '''Territorial and best kept singly'''; cannibalism can result from keeping incompatible pairs together | |
| + | |||
| + | Provide '''dust bath ''' | ||
| − | Easy to clean cage | + | Easy to clean cage recommended- lightweight easy to remove plastic bottom with sides deep enough to contain bedding, wire tops, large door |
| − | + | Small, heavy dishes for food | |
| − | Bedding | + | Water bottles (check/refill DAILY) |
| + | |||
| + | Bedding- recycled paper, compressed wheat straw, citrus litter, aspen or oak beddings, corncob; avoid pine and cedar | ||
| + | |||
| + | Hide box | ||
| + | |||
| + | Clean 2x/week | ||
| + | |||
| + | 12 hour light cycles | ||
===Diet=== | ===Diet=== | ||
| − | + | Seeds as treats, not sole diet | |
| + | |||
| + | Formulated pellets or blocks | ||
| + | |||
| + | Minimum protein content of 16%, fat content 4-5% | ||
==Rats== | ==Rats== | ||
===Housing=== | ===Housing=== | ||
| − | + | Can be '''group housed''' | |
| − | + | Like to climb '''ramps and ropes''' | |
| − | + | Easy to clean cage recommended- lightweight easy to remove plastic bottom with sides deep enough to contain bedding, wire tops, large door | |
| − | + | Small, heavy dishes for food | |
| + | |||
| + | Water bottles (check/refill DAILY) | ||
| + | |||
| + | Bedding- recycled paper, compressed wheat straw, citrus litter, aspen or oak beddings, corncob. | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Pine and cedar shaving should be avoided''' as they can predispose rats to respiratory disease. They contain the volatile oil thujone. '''Thujone is a respiratory irritant and may be tumorogenic'''. Thujone can cause convulsions and cortical brain lesions if there is prolonged exposure. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Hide box | ||
| + | |||
| + | Clean 2x/week | ||
| + | |||
| + | 12 hour light cycles | ||
===Diet=== | ===Diet=== | ||
| − | Seeds | + | Seeds as treats, not sole diet |
| + | |||
| + | Formulated pellets or blocks | ||
| − | + | Minimum protein content of 16%, fat content 4-5% | |
| + | |||
| + | Harder to convert to a new diet | ||
{{Learning | {{Learning | ||
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Mitchell, M. (2009) '''Manual of Exotic Pet Practice''' ''St. Louis: Saunders'' | Mitchell, M. (2009) '''Manual of Exotic Pet Practice''' ''St. Louis: Saunders'' | ||
| − | + | [[Category:To Do - Helen]] | |
| − | + | [[Category:To Do - Review]] | |
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| − | |||
| − | [[Category: | ||
| − | [[Category: | ||
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Revision as of 15:22, 30 August 2011
Introduction
Many diseases in small animal medicine concern poor husbandry, so it is vital to be well informed on the requirements of the small mammals commonly seen in practice.
Rabbits
Housing
Indoors or outdoors is possible.
- Outdoor housing should provide shade and shelter from wind and cold
- Indoor free range only requires a cage large enough to stretch out when laying on its side. Recommended indoor housing includes plastic bottom and wire top - easily cleaned and well ventilated; glass is not appropriate.
If the rabbit is on a wire mesh floor make sure that the openings are small enough so that the rabbit's foot cannot slip through the wire; also offer solid non-slip surface to provide rest off the mesh and prevent foot problems.
If there is more then one rabbit, each animal should have its own cage. It is good to provide functional spaces: laying down/sleeping, activities, latrine. Hiding places are important.
Ideal substrate is grass hay; a foam rubber pad, towel covered with newspaper and a thick layer of timothy hay is also acceptable. Wood shavings such as pine or cedar should be avoided (oils can cause respiratory/skin issues and has been associated with elevated liver enzymes).
Cages should be cleaned daily to remove feces and urine; gentle soap and hot water or dilute bleach solution are best. Rabbits generally have clean habits: droppings/urine in same place every time, can be trained to use litter box (place in litter box every few minutes when first acquired).
Rabbits should be housed in temps 15-23°c and low to moderate humidity (30-60%). Rabbits tolerate cold better then heat. They shiver when cold, and cannot sweat except through sweat glands in the lips. Rabbits pant ineffectively and when sufficiently dehydrated stop panting. They do not increase water intake with high temperatures, heat actually seems to inhibit drinking. Rabbits can use ears to dissipate heat, they usually actively seek shade and burrow. They are sensitive to temperatures higher than 28°c.
They can be housed in same space with other pets if the other animals adapt to rabbits. Pet birds and well-behaved dogs are ok, but cats are often unpredictable.
It is not good practice to house rabbits with guinea pigs. Rabbits carry Bordetella bronchiseptica asymptomatically and can transmit the infection to guinea pigs.
Diet
Dietary fibre stimulates gut motility, essential for normal digestion. Diets low in fibre can lead to hypomotility, changes in GI pH and microflora, wool block from increased hair consumption and cheek tooth overgrowth.
Pellets can be fed, including -
- commercial alfalfa-based pelleted diets which are balanced but low in fibre
- high-fibre, timothy-based pellets are available (Bunny Basic/T, Oxbow, Murdock, Forti-Diet, Kaytee)
Grass hay (timothy, prairie, oat, brome), legume hay (alfalfa) should be given ad lib. Alfalfa hay is ok for healthy rabbit; avoid in sedentary obese rabbits, geriatric rabbits or those offered vitamin or mineral supplements. Alfalfa contains higher levels of protein and calcium and can cause urolithiasis or urinary ‘sludge’.
Veggies - collard, mustard, dandelion greens; carrot, beet and broccoli tops; alfalfa sprouts, clover, parsley, lettuce and cabbage
Recommended diet - unlimited hay, some leafy green veggies, a very small amount of high-fiber low-protein pellets.
Allow access to water at all times; water bottle or heavy dish. Raabbits can go for several days without feed (coprophagy), cannot go without water for longer than 24 hours or less in hot weather. They have high water intake (50-150mL/kg body weight).
Guinea-Pigs
Housing
Healthy guinea pigs produce large amounts of faeces, often defecate in food and water containers, turn over unstable containers and are known to place chewed pellets in the opening of their sipper bottles.
Plastic, metal or wire caging with good ventilation is recommended. The cage does not have to be enclosed because pigs do not jump or climb. Flooring shoul be solid or wire mesh, but holes must be small enough to prevent foot entrapment and there must be an area of solid flooring in the cage. The enclosure needs to be large enough to move around with enough space for a hide box.
Bedding - newspaper, shredded paper, straw, aspen shavings. Pine or cedar should not be used, as they cause contact and respiratory irritation.
Quiet area out of direct sunlight must be provided and the recommended temperature range is 18-26°C. They are better able to tolerate cool than warm temperatures and are susceptible to hyperthermia.
The housing should be cleaned thoroughly on a regular basis (2x per week). Heavy food containers that are easy to disinfect and sipper bottle for water are best.
Diet
Food preferences are established early in life and guine pigs often refuse to eat if their food is changed in type or presentation. It is therfore important to expose young to various types of pellets and vegetables when young.
Recommended diet - guinea pellets (free choice or measured) and grass hay (timothy, orchard grass, oat) supplemented with fresh vegetables. Commercial pig pellets contain 18-20% crude protein and 10-16% fibre. Guinea pigs require a dietary source of vitamin C - 10mg/kg daily, which is found in veggies, fruits or supplemented in the water. Pellets are usually fortified with ascorbic acid but half of it is lost by 90 days after the food is mixed and stored at 22°C. Increased temperature and humidity accelerates oxidation, so it is best to assume that the food has none. Leafy greens like kale, parsley, beet greens, chicory, spinach; red and green peppers, broccoli, tomatoes, kiwi fruit, oranges contain a good amount of vitamin C. It can be added to water at 1g/L - open containers lose 50% content in 24hours. The vitamin C deteriorates more rapidly in the presence of metal, hard water or heat and the supplemented water must be changed daily to ensure adequate amounts are ingested.
Ferrets
Housing
The can be housed singly or in groups.
Indoors or outdoors depending on the climate
- Indoors - multi-level wire cage when necessary to confine, floor either solid or wire, NO glass tanks (poor ventilation); wooden cages can be used but care must be taken to pee proof corners/lower 3rd of walls/floors
- Outdoors - a portion of the cage should be shaded for protection from extreme heat/cold, escape proof, do not tolerate temps above 32°c especially with high humidity, in climates where temp drops below -6°c a heated shelter is necessary
Slings, hammocks, shelves can be built into cage to add additional sleep/play areas
Dark, enclosed sleeping area using towels, old shirts, cloth hats, commercial sleeping products (tubes/tents)
If the pet eats cloth can use cardboard, plastic or wooden box with access hole
One sleep area should be provided per ferret.
Ferrets can be litter box trained relatively easily. They back up into corners to defecate or urinate, so box sides should be high. A pelleted litter material is recommended instead of clay or clumping litter. Ferrets have a short GI transit time so litter boxes should be easily accessible.
There should be a safe play area with a variety of objects (boxes, bags, plastic pipes)
“Ferret proofing” the house - block off all holes to outside or to areas which ferrets cannot be retrieved , cover bottom of couches/chairs/mattresses with a piece of thin plywood or hardware cloth- ferrets like to burrow in soft foam rubber (destructive, foreign body), restrict access to recliners, no foam or latex rubber items (cat/dog toys, athletic shoes, rubber bands, stereo speakers, headphones, pipe insulation).
Diet
Ferrets are strict carnivores - designed to eat whole, small prey.
Ferrets in nature would only encounter carbohydrates in preys partially digested stomach contents, they have a short GIT, minimal gut flora, few enzymes, and so cannot use carbohydrates efficiently or digest fibre.
Diet should be high in fat, high in good-quality meat protein, with minimal carbohydrates and fibre.
High quality kitten food or commercially prepared ferret food; avoid dog or cat food
Supplements to dry food - whole prey (chicks, mice, rats), fresh raw organ or muscle meat, raw eggs, omega-3 oils, fish oils or meat fat can be added to increase fat content, some ferrets tolerate dairy products
Develop olfactory preferences for foods during first 3mo of life and preferences set by 4 mo (when leave nest in wild). It is difficult to change an adult ferrets diet
Water always available in sipper or heavy crock-type bowl. Ferrets like to play in the water, so the bowl should not be easy to overturn. Supplements should not be added to the ferrets’ water.
Chinchillas
Housing
Individual or group housing
Very active, acrobatic animals; require a lot of space
Large, multilevel cages allow for climbing and jumping
Welded wire mesh preferred as they often chew wooden cages.
Areas for eating, sleeping, exercising and latrine
Shy so need places to hide such as PVC pipes, plastic or cardboard boxes
Soft bedding to absorb waste and decrease pressure on feet such as recycled paper products, shredded newspaper, aspen shavings. Cedar and pine should be avoided.
Do best in cool, dry environment- 10-20°c. They do not tolerate dampness and are prone to heat stroke at temperatures greater than 30°c. Alternatives might include using electric fans or placing plastic bottles filled with ice in enclosure.
12 hour photoperiod; full spectrum lighting might be helpful
Cleaned thoroughly at least 2x per week. A diluted bleach suolution is the preferred disinfectant.
Dust bath daily or at least several times per week. Sanitised chinchilla dust is available in pet shops. 9:1 mixture of silver sand and Fuller’s earth can be used. Beach/playground sand not suitable. 2-3cm in a pan, big enough for chinchilla to roll around in. Sand bath should be removed from cage when done to prevent faecal contamination and over bathing.
Water bottles or heavy bowls.
Diet
Eat mainly at night.
Specific nutrient requirements are still unknown
Commercial diets available - some are just a mixture of rabbit, guinea pig and rodent pellets that provide vitamin C, are lower in protein and fat, has same fibre content as rabbit diet, and the pellets are longer to make it easier for the chinchilla to hold
Accepted formula is 16-20% protein, 2-5% fat, 15-35% bulk fibre
Recommended diet - good quality grass hay supplemented with small amounts of chinchilla or rabbit pellets and fresh vegetables.
Gradual changes in diet.
Clean, fresh drinking water at all times.
Hamsters
Housing
Should be kept singly; will fight if kept in pairs/groups
Easy to clean cage recommended- lightweight easy to remove plastic bottom with sides deep enough to contain bedding, wire top, large door
Small, heavy dishes for food
Water bottle (check/refill DAILY)
Bedding- recycled paper, compressed wheat straw, citrus litter, aspen or oak beddings, corncob; avoid pine and cedar
Hide box
Keep in cool area of house during summer- stressed by hot and humid environments
12 hour light cycles
Clean 2x/week
Diet
Seeds as treats, not sole diet
Formulated pellets or blocks
Minimum protein content of 16%, fat content 4-5%.
Gerbils
Housing
Territorial and best kept singly; cannibalism can result from keeping incompatible pairs together
Provide dust bath
Easy to clean cage recommended- lightweight easy to remove plastic bottom with sides deep enough to contain bedding, wire tops, large door
Small, heavy dishes for food
Water bottles (check/refill DAILY)
Bedding- recycled paper, compressed wheat straw, citrus litter, aspen or oak beddings, corncob; avoid pine and cedar
Hide box
Clean 2x/week
12 hour light cycles
Diet
Seeds as treats, not sole diet
Formulated pellets or blocks
Minimum protein content of 16%, fat content 4-5%
Rats
Housing
Can be group housed
Like to climb ramps and ropes
Easy to clean cage recommended- lightweight easy to remove plastic bottom with sides deep enough to contain bedding, wire tops, large door
Small, heavy dishes for food
Water bottles (check/refill DAILY)
Bedding- recycled paper, compressed wheat straw, citrus litter, aspen or oak beddings, corncob.
Pine and cedar shaving should be avoided as they can predispose rats to respiratory disease. They contain the volatile oil thujone. Thujone is a respiratory irritant and may be tumorogenic. Thujone can cause convulsions and cortical brain lesions if there is prolonged exposure.
Hide box
Clean 2x/week
12 hour light cycles
Diet
Seeds as treats, not sole diet
Formulated pellets or blocks
Minimum protein content of 16%, fat content 4-5%
Harder to convert to a new diet
| Husbandry - Small Mammals Learning Resources | |
|---|---|
 Test your knowledge using flashcard type questions |
Small Mammals Q&A 08 |
References
Quesenberry, K. (2004) Ferrets, Rabbits, and Rodents Clinical Medicine and Surgery St. Louis: Saunders
Mitchell, M. (2009) Manual of Exotic Pet Practice St. Louis: Saunders